I printed a huge amount of this popular Modified Container. The beads fell out within my AMS almost breaking the unit and making multiple prints fail before i found the problem. I use 3mm beads but some are manufactured undersize around 2mm. When cracked in half beads fell out of the previous design.

I designed this from scratch by measuring Bambu Lab, eSun and Elegoo Filament Spools to ensure the design is compatible.

• Only 25g of filament
• NO Support Required (any printer can print this)
• Two lengths - Universal Standard or Stubby (Stubby is featured in the photos perfect inside Elegoo cardboard rolls but also fits all other brands)
• Print time reduced by up to 27% (13% reduction on universal)
• Filament use reduced by up to 28% (20% reduction on universal)
• Holes are max 1.5-1.8mm so even broken beads can't fall out
• Designed to print fast (using Arachne 0.2mm layer)
• Designed to be easy to print (able to be printed on ancient Ender 3 V2's or modern Bambu Lab flagship printers)
• Square holes on base and lid so beads cant block vents entirely
• Lid compatible with either body

Full List of Fixes and Features

• Print time reduced by 27%
• Filament used reduced by 28%
• Thread start points chamferred
• Thread is now easier to twist
• Thread has less spins needed
• Less retractions
• Grid style base and lid is super fast and easy to print
• Zero Support Needed (overhangs are 60 degrees)
• Hole sizes reduced
• Standard length increased to stop falling out
• Stubby length reduced able to fit within inner chamber on spools like Elegoo
• Diameter unchanged
• Redesigned from scratch rather than modified
• Not ai
• SQUISHY (try squeezing/twising the sides gently)

Credit/Attribution

kpawel on thingiverse designed the original before it was remixed - then remixed again - and again haha

v3

Internal chamfer on body fixed
Depth near internal chamfer fixed
layer height issue near base of thread on body fixed

v2

Increased overall thickness.
Increased size of strength ring on the body.
Length change on "Stubby"

• Must be set to Arachne - (adaptive llne width) otherwise there won't be any advantage to the grid top and bottom.
• 0.2mm Layer height - seemed to be the only choice here as others (with higher layer height) produced artifacting in the cosmetic finish.
• 15% Infill worked fine for me it really isn't critical
• Walls 2 or more required.
• Support OFF
• Do NOT "simplify" the models in Bambu Studio as it creates physical and visual artifacts (even on max detail)
• Print with filament you plan on drying (e.g. PLA for PLA or PETG for drying PETG)

This will still print if Arachne is off (standard print settings) but it will take longer to print and the bed adhesion required may be tricky on some less modern printers.

Simply remove from build plate and twist the lid back and forth to smooth out the sharper layers. All done!

Don't go crazy tight with the lid. I was mucking around with it, as it acts like a spring to a certain extent. Don't squish it too hard if using PLA. I found out it explosively disassembles when unscrewing with more than 15kg of force!

I think if printed in PETG it would be such a cool torsion spring if anyone does use PETG post a comment to see if it works!

In reference to the body for the universal standard there is a rare print defect caused by certain slicers. (This does not effect the stubby or the lid)

In these images below a print error can present in about 10% of prints in my experience. When starting the bridge it can be accidentally in mid air. This tiny defect can then snowball and cause the print to fail.

To illustrate my point I have shown 2 sliced bodies (inside bambu studio). The first correct (over structure when it starts a wall or bottom layer) and the 2nd very close to failing immediately. This error is very hard to catch as the slicer seems to choose its start point for these micro bridges very randomly.

The smallest orange line is showing print direction (anti clockwise in this case). Meaning that the wall starts upon the furthest edge from the micro bridge and works towards it, this causes good adhesion and the bridge to succeed.

LONG STORY SHORT

When printing the body (universal one) make sure the "bottom" bridging-layer (below the thread) doesn't start in thin air. Very small detail in an otherwise simple print. Thanks for reading.

• The tool is called Seam placement away from over hangs (experimental)